THE SPOT BAY AREAS
Greg Diamond taking on Dixon's Delight
Dixon's Wall is a smooth section of bluff face in the village of Spot Bay, essentially situated in the 'back yard' of Mr. Hindenberg "Berg" Dixon. Ask permission first and you will be able to climb there. You might even garner an impromptu audience with food and cool drinks! The Dixon home is directly across from the Spot Bay Primary School, white frame with black shutters. Can't find it, just ask anyone around. Please be respectful of their property, leave no trace. Routes are numbered left to right as you face the bluff.
1.) Bussy's Bulge, 11 c/d, bolt count 2/9. Begins under a small overhang. Clip first bolt (VERY HIGH) and find a bucket ladder. Ti
2.) Lizzard the Gizzard, 10d, bolt count 2/9. Pocket pulling and navigation of stalactites. Ti
3.) Dixon's Delight, 11a, bolt count 2/10. Where the fence ends. Pockets and edges. Great climb as seen in shots of Michelle Hurni cruising the climb at right, and Mike Auldridge (at left) negotiating the flowstone band near the top. Ti
4.) Out of Africa, 11d, bolt count 2/10. Flowstone curtains, mono's, CAUTION: first clip is high. Ti
5.) Buffalo Soldier, 12 a/b, bolt count 2/10. Rightmost route facing wall. Sustained, pinchy, crimpy crux. Ti
Neptune's Lair is found at the end of Long Beach Walk, left of where the shore intersects the bluff. Routes are numbered left to right facing the bluff. The first two routes are considerably left (under huge leaning boulders) of the main 5 which are easily seen on the cliff face. Will be rebolted in 03-02.
1.) Medusa, 11 c/d, bolt count 2/4. Leftmost route, shares bolts and anchors with #2.
2.) Neptune's Lair, 11 c/d, bolt count 2/4.
3.) Conch-U-Brine, 11 c/d, bolt count 2/8.
4.) The Tempest, 11 c/d, bolt count 2/7.
5.) Poseidon, 11c, bolt count 2/9.
6.) Booby Eggs for Breakfast, 10d, bolt count 2/5. Misconceived trad route. Not recommended.
7.) Calypso, 11b, bolt count 2/7. Rightmost route.
Tsunami Wall ... ( NOW OFF LIMITS!! PLEASE SEE THE NOTICE BELOW !! ) ... is further on past the huge leaning boulders that denote the end of Neptune's Lair. You can get there by scrambling to the base at low to medium tide levels, however most approach from the top and rap the routes, it's definitely easier access. Go to Peter's Cave Road which intersects Major Donald Drive approximately 5 miles east of Ashton Reid Road (Crossover Road). Take the Lighthouse Footpath (North Rim Trail) for about 1/2 mile until you break out of fairly dense foliage. Look for a rock cairn and two small twin palm trees on your left. Go to the bluff edge and you are there. Routes numbered L to R as you face the sea. These routes are on moderate quality rock. Not the best. NOT RE-BOLTED AS OF 03-01-02.
1.) Chia Pet, 5.9, 1/12/0.
2.) Tsunami, 11a, 2/14/1. T
3.) Found a Peanut, 12a, 2/15/1.
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