SOUTH SIDE CLIMBS
taking a ride on "Chum Buckets"
W A V E W A L L
Walk about 10 minutes past the Orange Cave along the SE shore and come to a pile of boulders. Scramble through to Sentinel Rock (aka first Cay) and you will see Wave Wall approximately 200 yards further along the rugged shoreline. Continue scrambling eastward under a long overhang for and over dark, sharp rock to reach the climbs. This is a very aesthetic location, peppered with pockets and edges and a great place to begin your climbing experience on the island. Climbs range from 5.8 to 5.12, all terrific lines. Climbs are numbered from L to R as you face the wall. Watch the wave action and water level. It is easy to get caught out here.
1.) Get it Together, 12d, 2/6. Strenuous and sequency. Leftmost route.
2.) Pirates of Penance, 12a, 2/5. Very steep start which eases off. Ti (Elison)
3.) Pirates of Pissants, 12d, 2/6. Power pocket pulling with variants to the crux. (Grenard)
4.) Conched Out, 10c, 2/7. Shares anchors with #5. Ti (Grenard)
5.) Frolickin' Frigates, 10c, 2/8. Neat roof and a column above the cave. Ti (Grenard)
6.) Reef on This, 11a, 2/13. Climb to a set of anchors (middle belay station) just below the headwall, 5.8, rap with a 50 M rope. OR .... continue climbing the overhanging headwall above to the top anchors, 10c, rap with a 60 M rope. Ti *NOTE: there are rap anchors at the base of the headwall on Routes 6 and 7. Climb to here = 5.8 . (Grenard)
7.) Parrot Preserves on Rye, 11b, 2/11. Climb to a set of belay anchors (middle belay station) under the headwall, 5.8, rap with a 50 M rope. OR ... continue climbing above to anchors at the top, 11a, rap with a 60 M rope. Ti (Grenard)
8.) Unsuspecting Remora, 12a, 7/2 plus fixed threads. Goes up a white face streaked with black. It's steep, challenging with a reachy start with few holds, then to oververtical jugs left of the cave above. Ti (Hirst)
9.) Calico Jack's Den, 10a, 2/8. Climb to the large cave (Jack's Den) on buckets, into and out of its right side, and out the right roof with big exposure to an anchor set above. Here Jeff Elison rounds the exposed roof (photo to right).*NOTE: Named "Shooting the curl" by mistake elsewhere!! Ti (Harper)
Jeff Elison rounding the blind corner on #9
10.) Shootin' the Curl, 11a, 2/9. Fun bucket pulling until it squeezes down, then shoot over the curl (crux). *NOTE: Named "Hang Ten" by mistake elsewhere!! Ti (Harper)
11.) New Wave, 10c, 2/8. A jug haul up into a small cave and a crux near the final bolt. Ti (Elison)
12.) Old School, 5.8, 2/7. Yes, a very aesthetic, bolted 5.8! Great intro to climbing on Brac thanks to Jeff Elison. This is the rightmost route. Ti (Elison)
THE ORANGE STREAK
Located about 400 yards east of the Orange Cave at a prominent vertical orange streak near the top of the bluff. THREE recreational routes have been put in here, possibly the easiest on the island. and * NOTE: BE CAREFUL of routes 2 and 3!! These were originally bolted with Petzl Stainless eyes. These are in the process of being replaced at present ('10)! Top anchors are Tortugas placed in 12/09.
1.) Brac Snack 5.5 2/3 Bolted after many requests for an 'easy training route'. (Harper, '09) Ti
2.) Orange Streak 5.7 2/6 Follow the bolt line up to a 15 foot long right facing dihedral. Pro can be used here! Author unknown, CAUTION - mixed bolts (01-10) !!
3.) Shark Bait 5.9 2/6 Follow the bolt line up increasingly sharp rock .... crux move is just before the 'old anchors', although the route ends at the newly installed Ti top anchors 15' above. Author unknown. CAUTION - mixed bolts (01-10) !! Photo at left is this route.
THE ORANGE CAVE
Erica Binger enjoying a TR on La Orangerie
Drive to the turnaround at the east end of South Side Road East. Walk along 'Beach Walk' eastwards for about 5 minutes and you can't miss it. Routes are numbered L to R facing the rock.
1.) Feeding Frenzy, 10b, 2/10. Starts in a cave like alcove with first bolt difficult to see. No titanium. (Harper and Johnson,'94) NOT REBOLTED !
2.) Chum Buckets, 10c, 2/6. *First route on the island ('94). Big moves on big holds. Fun route. Rap out below the sharp teeth. Ti (Harper and Johnson,'94)
3.) Going to Cayman with a Snorkel in My Jeans, 10c, 2/6. Silly first clip. Be very careful. Ti (Luebben)
4.) Orange Fantasea, 11b, 2/7. Starts in the cave and goes up and out the right side. Ti (Luebben)
5.) La Orangerie, 5.9, 2/5. Fun and short. Ti (Harper)
6.) Ick Theology, 10b, 2/9. *Note: Located about 125 feet east of #5. The shorter you are, the harder the start. Heads to a small cave followed by a steep jug haul. See photoTopo below. Ti (Hirst)
LOVE SHACK WALL
Located about 2.5 miles east of Ashton Reid Road on South Side Road East, this is the home of hardmen. Hard routes on smooth, overhanging rock. Routes are numbered from L to R facing the rock.
CAUTION: Three routes are rebolted and three are not, HOWEVER ALL TOP ANCHORS have been replaced (01-01-02) !!
1.) Mild Virus, 12b, 2/6. Leftmost route. Stick clip first bolt if you value your life. (Elison and Grenard) NOT REBOLTED!
2.) Leapin' Lizzards, 12a, 2/7. Ti Another obvious stick clip and throw for the big bucket, another dyno ... and another. (Elison and Grenard)
3.) Bats in Brac, 12 c/d, 2/7. Hard beginning moves. (Grenard) NOT REBOLTED!
4.) Parrot Trooper, 12 b/c, 2/4. Ti Another stick clip or crash and burn on nasty rock. (Grenard)
5.) Throwin' the Hoola Girl, 12a, 2/7. Ti Deceptive and challenging at the grade. (Elison)
6.) Bric-A-Brac Crack, 12a, 2/6. Shares anchors with #5. Left rising seam is the telling feature. (Grenard and Elison) NOT REBOLTED!
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